Comparative Review of Descending Devices
By Matt Smith

When rappelling it is essential that your rappel device be safe, easy to use and perhaps most important, that you feel comfortable using it. I have spent the last few months testing several of the belay/rappel devices available. Here is a list of the descenders and a summary of my impressions and experiences with each device:

Petzl Stop

The design of the Petzl Stop is perhaps the best in the group. The body of the Stop opens such that the device can be placed on the rope without disconnecting it from your main carabiner. It is a very smooth rappel and the Auto-Lock feature is not only very safe, but also very convenient when you need to lock off. There are no knots to fumble with, just release the lever and you're set. The cam over which the rope passes can be replaced once it becomes worn at a very reasonable cost. One of the advantages of the Stop over other devices is that is doesn't induce a coil in the rope, which results in longer rope life and helps prevent the rope from tangling when it is thrown off a drop. An added benefit of the stop is that the Auto-Lock feature allows the descender to be used as an ascender should the need arise. At just over 325 grams you hardly notice the stop in you pack or on your belt. The price tag is higher than most other devices in the group at $67.00, but the functionality warrants the cost. The Stop will handle 9-11 mm rope, smaller rope diameters will work, but the Auto-Lock feature is no longer active.

Petzl Huit

The Huit is similar to a standard figure 8 with the only two significant differences being the rectangular shape of the large ring and the plastic covered tab on the top. Petzl claims that the Huit does not twist the ropes, which I found to be mostly true. The Huit did induce a small amount of coil into the rope, but it was minimal and insignificant when compared with standard figure 8's. Hooking on the Huit is simple and fast, but it does require the device to be removed from your carabiner, which could result in the device being dropped. Rope feed through the Huit is quick and easy. With dry 10.5 mm rope I felt that I had to really crank of the brake end to stop. The plastic coated tab on the top of the Huit gives you a place to hold while disconnecting from the rope without burning your hands. After a long rappel I couldn't detect any significant heat on the surface of the tab. In contrast, the SMC Straight 8 was plenty hot after longer rappels, and you have no choice but to grab right onto the business part of the device. The Huit is fairly light at 100 grams and may be carried as a back-up device. The Huit can be used on single or double ropes from 8-12 mm. The price tag of $16.50 makes the Huit an economical choice.

Petzl Rack

Widely used in caving, the Petzl Rack has distinct advantages over many other rappel devices. It is because of these advantages that the Rack was one of my favorite devices in the group. Perhaps the biggest advantage of the Rack is that friction on the rope can be adjusted in mid-rappel while the device is loaded. This is accomplished by simply swinging the brake bars into the open or closed position. The device can remain clipped to your carabiner while hooking into the rope eliminating the possibility you might drop it. The rack is very easy to lock off and I found that with exception to the Stop, the Rack was the most versatile device in the group. Rope feed through the Rack is like a pulley, very, very smooth. Only minimum effort is required for braking. The Rack will handle 9-13 mm single or 8-11 mm double ropes. One of the downfalls of the Rack is the weight. At 470 grams it is one of the heavier devices in the group. The Petzl Rack is not rated for rescue or lowering, only as an individual rappel device. When weight is not a significant issue and control is essential, the Rack is a must have. The Rack is reasonably priced at $62.00.

Petzl I.D. (Industrial Descender)

While not typically used for sport activities, I decided to try out the I.D. because of its features. I was not disappointed. The I.D. is one of the heavier devices in the group at 530 grams, which may explain its absence on sporting shelves. The I.D. can be locked off by rotating the handle clockwise until it stops. When the handle is rotated counter-clockwise from the locked position the cam releases allowing the device to move down the rope. A nice feature on the I.D. is the panic lock. If you let go of the device while descending the cam will rotate stopping the fall. The panic lock also allows the I.D. to be used as an ascending device should the need arise. I found the rope feed through the I.D. to be somewhat jerky. The position the rope enters the device from the brake side forces your hand to be close to the device. If you pull your hand back near your hip the rope slips off the surface designed to carry the rope when rappelling. The I.D. will handle 9-12 mm single ropes and can remain clipped to your carabiner at all times. The $150 price tag may discourage use as a sport descender since it is nearly twice the cost of the next most expensive descender. I found the device to be very safe and sturdy, but perhaps Petzl has made the right decision by not marketing it as a sport climbing device.

Trango Pyramid

Hands down the Pyramid is my preferred canyoneering rappel device. It is small, light (68 grams) and effective. I think of it somewhat like having a .38 in your night stand drawer. The Pyramid can handle ropes from 8-11 mm, however, once I used 11mm, and it was a push to get them through the narrow end of the device. The machined cooling fins help dissipate heat generated during long rappels. The wide radius of the friction surface reduces abrasion on the rope increasing longevity of both the device and the rope. A nice feature of the Pyramid is the device can be used with either the wide of the narrow end against the carabiner. Using the narrow end against the carabiner increases the length of friction surface on the carabiner. With a pack full of equipment and supplies the extra friction can come in handy. The rope feed through the Pyramid is smooth and constant. Braking requires minimal effort and lock of is easy with a little practice. The small accessory cable allows the device to always be connected to the carabiner, a must for canyoneers. At around $17.00 you can afford to replace the Pyramid after it gets a thrashing from sand and mud covered ropes.

Trango Jaws

The Jaws is similar to the Pyramid in shape, and function. The Jaws will handle single or double ropes from 8 - 11 mm. Hooking on to the rope is quick and easy. During the rappel, flipping the ropes up out of the "V" notches onto the adjacent edge can vary the amount of friction. When the need for friction increases, the ropes can be flipped back into the "V" notches. When you need a quick lock off the Jaws makes it easy. Twin "V" notches keep the rope from slipping through when locked off, even with a heavy load. Rope feed through the device seemed smoother with smaller diameter ropes. When using larger diameter ropes, especially if the ropes are wet, the feed became a little jerky. In my opinion this device is best suited to use with ropes 10 mm in diameter or less. Single and double 9 mm ropes feed through the device easily. The Jaws has an accessory cable to keep the device connected to your carabiner at all times. The Jaws is lightweight at 73 grams and costs around $20. For mostly dry canyons with frequent, relatively short rappels, or when weight counts, the Jaws is an excellent choice.

Wild Country Variable Controller

Small and rugged, the Variable Controller is practically indestructible. The wedge shaped body is solid with two slots that can handle single or double ropes. Friction can be varied by using either the thick or the thin sides of the device. The Variable Controller is very rope friendly with a smooth, wide friction surface. Rope feed through the device was smooth and easy on dry ropes but for some reason on wet ropes the feed became very jerky, a problem I didn't notice with other similar devices. At 70 grams the Variable Controller is light enough to carry on any trip. The accessory cable is handy for keeping the device attached to the carabiner. Braking the Variable Controller requires almost no effort and the device slipped less when locked off than other similar devices. At $16.95 the Variable Controller is also cheap enough to replace relatively frequently. If your ropes are going to be dry most of the time, the Variable Controller provides excellent control, good braking action, and durability.

SMC NFPA Rack (Aluminum Bars)

Although slightly heavier than the Petzl Rack, the SMC Rack has a few features that may be worth the extra weight. The first bar on the rack is stainless steel, which is more durable than aluminum. The first bar is hollow which also helped dissipate heat during rappels. Subsequent bars are aluminum and weigh 35 grams each. Depending on how you order your kit, weight could vary from 410 grams to around 500 grams. All the brake bars pivot open which makes getting on the rope easier than with the Petzl Rack, which requires bights of rope to be pushed through the rack to hook into the rope. When the SMC Rack is used properly, swinging bars are just as safe as fixed bars. The lock-off portion on the first bar is nice to have when switching from ascending to descending or vice-versa. With only my body weight, I found all six bars to give a little too much braking power, even on a single 9 mm rope. That is the beauty of the rack though, swinging two bars out of the way and rappelling on 4 bars was just right. Being able to adjust friction, even while the device is loaded makes the Rack especially well suited to long rappels. Rope feed through the rack is very smooth and controlled. The NFPA Rack can accommodate single or double ropes, but due to the grooved second bar, it may be best suited to single ropes. The SMC NFPA Rack is suitable for use in rescue situations. The only two disadvantages to the rack in my opinion are the size and the weight. The price of the Rack is very reasonable at $62.00. If you only have a few long rappels, and you are not concerned about space or weight the SMC Rack is definitely a good option.

SMC Anodized Aluminum Straight 8

The Straight 8 looks almost like it came out of the same forge as the Petzl Huit. The only significant differences being that the Straight 8 has a nearly flat profile, and lacks the tab on the large ring. As with the Petzl Huit, I found that the Straight 8 didn't induce a significant amount of coil into the rope. However, I wasn't able to find an explicit claim from SMC that the device doesn't coil the rope. Just an added benefit I guess. The smaller profile shaves off a few grams, leaving the device weighing just 93 grams. Just as with Huit, I found the Straight 8 to be a little quick on the rope for my taste. With larger diameter ropes (10.5 mm and larger) the feed slowed down to a more comfortable rate. Hooking into the rope with the Straight 8 is easy, but it requires the device to be removed from your carabiner, increasing the risk that it might be dropped. There is no tab on the Straight 8 to hold when the device is hot, a feature I sorely missed after long rappels. The $17 price tag makes the Straight 8 affordable, but for the same price, I would Rather have a Trango Pyramid. However, if you like the feel of 8's, the Straight 8 is a great choice for you.

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Matt is the canyoneering specialist at GearReview.com.